Monday, March 30, 2015

Aix en Provence


Mevsimine ters geziler en sevdigimiz seylerden birisidir. Jb bana yilbasi tatilimizi nerede gecirelim diye sordugunda ilk aklima gelen yerlerden birisi Provence oldu. Aslinda ilik bir bahar yada yaz gunu  doyamayacagimiz lavanta tarlalarini, soguk ve o kadar ruzgarli yilin son gunlerinde sokaklara tercih etmek mecburiyetinde kaldik. Iyi de ettik. 
Low-season visit is one of our favourites. When JB asked my idea about where we can spend a new year, one of the first answer was Provence. Instead of wandering around the lavender fields in a breezy spring or a warm summer day, we had to choose wandering around indoors or on the cute streets at the last days of the year. Why not !!! 

Eger Provence' daysaniz ve henuz varmadan Fransizcaniza bir goz atmak istiyorsaniz isinizi bir tik kolaylastirayim; hiz anlamina gelen "vitesse" kelimesini haznenizden cikartin. Zira Cézanne ve Émile Zola gibi sanatcilarin da sehri olan bu kucuk yerde bulamayacaginiz tek sey hiz olacak. Hatta bir an sokaklarin birinde durup aslinda Cézanne aklimdan gecenleri bir tabloya donusturse nasil olur diye dusunmedim degil. Hayal edelim; gunesli bir gun, rahat elbiselerinin icersinde bir yerel marketten digerine kosan insanlar, hamamlarinda keyif yapip Romalilara da bir tesekkur gonderenler ve meydanlardaki kafeleri doldurmus pastisini ya da yerel rosesini yudumlarken aksam uzun uzun keyfini surerek yiyecegi Povençale usulu bifteginin hayalini kuranlar... Iste tam bu noktada gerceklere donup Fransizca kelime haznemize yavaslik anlamina gelen "lenteur" u ekleyip huzurun dayanilmaz hafifligine geri donuyoruz. 

If you're in Provence, before coming here, check out your French and forget about one word "vitesse"!  It means speed and which is something you can not find around this easygoing hometown of Cézanne and Émile Zola. For a one moment I even thought about if Cézanne would paint what came into my mind about this city, what he would paint exactly? Imagine; in a sunny day locals in their easy dresses, shopping around from the local boutiques, enjoying the spas by sending their appreciates to the Romans then everyone fills the cafe terraces to sip pastis or a local rosé before heading off to enjoy long dinner ceremony of slow-cooked daube de boeuf Provençale. Then, here, at this point, we are adding the word " lenteur" or "slowness" in our vocabulary and turning back to the unbearable lightness of peace. 





Ayrilmadan once yapmaniz gerekenler; 
-Cours Mirabeau da yuruyus ve sonrasinda Émile Zola'nin ve Cézanne in ugrak mekani Leas Deux Garçon da bir seyler icip etrafi seyre dalmak,
-Musée Garnet'i mutlaka ziyaret edip essiz koleksiyonunda kaybolmak, 
-Cézanne in adimlarini takip edip atolyelerini ziyaret et ve tablolarina konuk olmus Mont Sainte - Victoire a bir de onun gozunden, atolyesinden bak, 
-Lavanta tarlalari ? Tabi sicak iklimde gidecek kadar sansliysaniz onlari da kacirmayin derim :) 

Don't leave before; 
-Walking around Cours Mirabeau and drink something in Les Deux Garçons where Émile Zola and Cézanne hung out often and one of a clutch of cafes. It buzzes with people watchers, 
-Visiting Musée Garnet and lose yourself into a selected collection of it,
-Following the steps of Cézanne, visit his studios and look at Mont Sainte - Victoire from there, on his eyes, where became a subject of a number of Cézanne paintings,
-Lavander fields ? Well, if you're lucky enough going there in a warm climate yes why not, don't miss them too :) 





The garden of Musée Garnet from inside. 



Ve son olarak "Le Petit Verdot" nun buyuk bir ziyafetten sonra 3 farkli crème brûléesini tatmadan donmeyin. 
And lastly don't leave without tasting three different kind of crème brûlée after a great meal at "Le Petit Verdot"


Woolrich parka / American Apparel leggings / Comme de Garçons x Converse shoes / JB's grand father's fur cap 

Pics by me and JB 



























Tuesday, February 17, 2015

The Oyster, Ocean and Dune


Basliktan da anlayacaginiz uzere sizlere bu uc birbirinden alakasiz cok yakin arkadasin Cap Ferret de gecen hikayelerini anlatacagim. Fransa'nin bati kiyisinda bulunan Cap Ferret yarimadasi, kendine munhasir tarziyla ve yapisiyla guney kiyidaki rakibiyle (St JEan de Luz) yarisarak Bordeaux'nun ve Paris'in varlikli ailelerinin en gozde tatil mekanlari arasina girmeyi yillar once basarmis bile. Varlikli aileler dediysek akliniza hemen St Tropez gibi bir yer gelmesin. Burasi bir balikci kasabasi. Cap Ferret'de gosterisli yatlar, Ivana Trumplar veya Paris Hiltonlar goremeyeceksiniz. Onun yerine kasabanin etrafinda dolasan balikci kayiklari ve forkliflerinin uzerinde kendilerini "paysans de la mer" olarak adlandiran istiridye ciftcileriyle karsilasacaksiniz. Ayrica mimari beklentilerinizi de olabildigince basit tutun zira burada Gehry nin Californiya kiyilarina kondurdugu o super modern evlerden bulmaniz pek mumkun degil. Birbirinden guzel yerel cam agaclarindan yapilmis dogada kaybolan ahsap evler sizleri guzellikleriyle kendilerine hayran birakacak. 

As you gonna understand from the heading, this post smells like an ocean!  Cap Ferret, a peninsula on French west-coast, is a specific and  unique summer gateway for the wealthy Bordelais and Parisians   for many years. With its unique landscape as well, they are always in an endless competition with its south-coast nemesis (St jean de Luz). As I mention about wealthiness of the area don't flash somewhere like St Tropez! Here, there is no luxurious yachts, no Ivana Trump or Paris Hilton. Cap Ferret is a village de pêcheurs who called themselves as "poisons de la mer". Instead you will find fishing boats and oyster farmers driving around town on their forklifts. In addition don't have big expectations about the architecture of the houses like the ones Gehry built on the "west coast". Small wood houses perfectly lost in the nature and made from local pine are decorated with blue and white shutters.




Okyanusa gelince, dalgalarin yuksekligi istahli sorf ahalisini tesvik edecek kadar nezih ve yeterli. Plajda, ise suyun icindekilerin aksine sakin hayat devam ediyor. Insanlar yavas yavas kumlara siziyor, kimisi deniz kabugu toplamanin pesindeyken,  kimisi sadece surf tutkunlarini izleyip keyif yapmanin pesinde.  
In the ocean, the waves are decent enough to encourage an enthusiastic surf community. On the beach side, at the low tide, life is more serene contrary to the ones inside the water. Slow by slow people are  trickling across the sands. While some of them pursuit of picking up shells, the others prefer to just lay down and watch the surfers. 





Gec ogleden sonralari ise istriridye ve beyaz sarap a adaniyor. Gidebileceginiz bir cok adres var fakat biz orada yasayan bir arkadasimizin tavsiyesiyle (yerel bilgi en iyisidir diyerekten) Chez Boulan i sectik. Bu minik ama huzurlu restoranda belkide cift olarak hayatimizin en mutlu bir kac saatlerinden birini gecirdik. Hatirladigim kadariyla rezervasyon kabul etmiyorlar o yuzden ayakta beklemeye hazirlikli olun. Icinizden gelen homurtulari duyar gibiyim ama  merak etmeyin guleryuzlu ve muhabbeti bol calisanlari sayesinde zamanin nasil gectigini anlamayacaksiniz. Masaniza oturdugunuzda aninda her sey masanizda olacak.  
Late afternoons are devoted to fresh oysters with white wine. You have plenty of addresses to have them but, we decided to try a suggestion of a local friend (locals know the best) Chez Boulan. In this small but cute restaurant as a couple we spent one of the happiest time of our life. Good food, lover and a landscape (dunes of Arcachon). Awesome trinity !!! As far as I remember they don't accept reservations so be ready to be at the line. I feel like hearing your unsatisfied inner voice. Don't worry you will not understand how time spin away thanks to the friendly and chatty staff. And finally when you pass through your table everything will be there in a minute. 
Aklinizda bulunsun; Fransizlar Louis XIV' den miras kalmis bir gelenek sebebiyle istiridyeyi icinde "r" gecen aylarda (Fransizca) tuketirler. Diger aylar ureme aylari oldugundan korumaya birakirlar. Yani yazin geldiginizde ben istiridye istiyorum diye tutturmayin pek bulamazsiniz. 
Ps: In France people eat oysters just in months that contain "r" (in French). This rule is little merit today, as it dates from the days of Louis XIV and a royal edict forbidding farmers from harvesting wild oysters during the months without an "r", the period of reproduction. 


Gunes yuzunuze vururken, burnunuzda okyanus kokusu ve karsinizda kumdan bir dag. Sanirim huzurun tanimina biraz da olsa benziyor. 
While sun is across your face, smell of ocean is on your nose and the view of mountain of sands. I guess the explanation of peace is a little bit something like that. 


Gitmek icin; arabaniz varsa ne mutlu size eger yoksa hic uzulmeyin karsinizda toplu tasimanin uzmanlari var. Bordeaux'dan 601 numarali otobuse bindiginizde yaklasik olarak 1:30 saat icerisinde Cap Ferret de olacaksiniz. Otobusler gercekten cok konforlu ve kolay. 
To Go: If you have a car happy you !!! But if you haven't don't worry here is the masters of the public transportation talking, from the central Bordeaux , when you catch the bus number 601 around in 1:30 hours you will be in Cap Ferret. Busses are super cool and comfortable. 


Sessun top / Zara cardigan / Cheap Monday jeans / Woolrich parka / Nike blazers

Pics by JB and me 

For more info about Cap Ferret and Bassin d'Arcachon click here !





Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Saint-Émillion


Evet, nerde kalmistik ? Hah hala Bordeaux'dayiz, muhtemelen Fransa'nin sarap uretimi yapan onlarca sehirinin en iyisinde, ve siz oturmus karar kara yaklasik olarak bolgenin 1500 küsür sarap bagi arasindan hangisinin en kesfedilmeye ve tadilmaya deger olduguna karar vermeye calisiyorsunuz. Iste size iyi egitilmis sarap garsonunu bile afallatacak bir soru ; bu bas dondurucu uzum suyunun etkisine biraz daha fazla girmek icin nereden baslayacagiz ? Eger arabaniz varsa hemen GPS inizin rotasini Saint-Émillion'a ayarlayin veya arabaniz yoksa da hic sorun degil yaklasik yarim saatlik bir tren yolculugundan sonra kendinizi minicik bir tren istasyonunda inerken buluyorsunuz. Etrafimiz sarap baglariyla sarilmis hep o buyuk sehirler arasi tren yolculugu yaparken ismini bilmedigimiz birden bire iniverip hemen sokaklarina dalmak istediginiz kucuk koylerden birinin istasyonunda buluyoruz kendimizi. 

Yes, where were we ? Ahh still in Bordeaux, probably the most famous of France's many wine-producing regions and you set aside a day to explore the best that the area's 1500 some odd wineries  and you are brooding about which one you gonna choose. Here there is the question even enough to flummox a trained sommelier; how do we make  our decision, where can one possibly begin ? So, at this point my blog has a suggestion for you; if you have a car set your GPS for the small hilltop town of Saint-Émillion. If not, which is something I prefer and did, around 30 min by train from Bordeaux you will arrive to a cute little train station. Surrounding by vineyards, I find myself one of that small village station that generally no one really takes attention and I always want to get off to be lost in its narrow streets while travelling between big cities. 












Oglen yemeginiz icin en guzel adreslerden birisi L'envers Du Décor
L'envers Du Décor is one of the most delicious address to rock your lunch.


Gelelim isin en zevkli kismina; sarap tadimi! Bir cok sato secenegimiz olmasina ragmen biz tercihimizi yapisal farkliligi sebebiyle Château Villemaurine' den yana kullandik. Bu guzel ortacag kasabasinin merkezine cok yakin insa edilmis olan sato sizlere beklenmedik surprizler sunuyor. Bir onceki Bordeaux postumda bahsettigim evlerde kullanilan taslarin cikarildigi cok eski bir ocak burasi. Tur rehberi esliginde yaklasik 40 dklik tarihi bir tura cikiyorsunuz. Bu turda kasabanin ve tas ocaginin gecimisini yaratici bir ortamda, isiklarla ve efektlerle deneyimleme sansi yakalayacaksiniz. Turunuzun sonunda da beklenen an geliyor; saraplarinizi tadima hazirsiniz ! 

Here is the most waited part of this trip; wine tasting! There are many chateau options in Saint-Émillion but we preferred Château Villemaurine because of its historical and architectural background. Located close to center of the medieval town Villemaurine has unexpected surprises for its visitors. It's an old quarry used to built the houses in Bordeaux  as I mention before in my previous post. With the guided tour, which takes around 40 minutes, you will have the opportunity to visit network of quarries and learn the history of Saint-Émillion by watching the projection prepared by the chateau. At the end of this little adventure in the past here you are in the dream room to taste your fermented grape juices ! 

Her ne kadar Saint-Émillion da makaron konusunda iddiali olsa da benim tercihim her zaman St Jean de Luz'un klasiklesen Maison Adamindan yana olacak. 
Although Saint-Émillion is quite assertive about their macarons too, I'll always prefer Maison Adam which becomes a classic in St Jean de Luz. 




Woolrich parka / COS top / American Apparel jean / Buxiki ( a basque brand ) boots / Celine bag 
Jimmy Fairly glasses

Pics by JB and me