Tuesday, February 17, 2015

The Oyster, Ocean and Dune


Basliktan da anlayacaginiz uzere sizlere bu uc birbirinden alakasiz cok yakin arkadasin Cap Ferret de gecen hikayelerini anlatacagim. Fransa'nin bati kiyisinda bulunan Cap Ferret yarimadasi, kendine munhasir tarziyla ve yapisiyla guney kiyidaki rakibiyle (St JEan de Luz) yarisarak Bordeaux'nun ve Paris'in varlikli ailelerinin en gozde tatil mekanlari arasina girmeyi yillar once basarmis bile. Varlikli aileler dediysek akliniza hemen St Tropez gibi bir yer gelmesin. Burasi bir balikci kasabasi. Cap Ferret'de gosterisli yatlar, Ivana Trumplar veya Paris Hiltonlar goremeyeceksiniz. Onun yerine kasabanin etrafinda dolasan balikci kayiklari ve forkliflerinin uzerinde kendilerini "paysans de la mer" olarak adlandiran istiridye ciftcileriyle karsilasacaksiniz. Ayrica mimari beklentilerinizi de olabildigince basit tutun zira burada Gehry nin Californiya kiyilarina kondurdugu o super modern evlerden bulmaniz pek mumkun degil. Birbirinden guzel yerel cam agaclarindan yapilmis dogada kaybolan ahsap evler sizleri guzellikleriyle kendilerine hayran birakacak. 

As you gonna understand from the heading, this post smells like an ocean!  Cap Ferret, a peninsula on French west-coast, is a specific and  unique summer gateway for the wealthy Bordelais and Parisians   for many years. With its unique landscape as well, they are always in an endless competition with its south-coast nemesis (St jean de Luz). As I mention about wealthiness of the area don't flash somewhere like St Tropez! Here, there is no luxurious yachts, no Ivana Trump or Paris Hilton. Cap Ferret is a village de pêcheurs who called themselves as "poisons de la mer". Instead you will find fishing boats and oyster farmers driving around town on their forklifts. In addition don't have big expectations about the architecture of the houses like the ones Gehry built on the "west coast". Small wood houses perfectly lost in the nature and made from local pine are decorated with blue and white shutters.




Okyanusa gelince, dalgalarin yuksekligi istahli sorf ahalisini tesvik edecek kadar nezih ve yeterli. Plajda, ise suyun icindekilerin aksine sakin hayat devam ediyor. Insanlar yavas yavas kumlara siziyor, kimisi deniz kabugu toplamanin pesindeyken,  kimisi sadece surf tutkunlarini izleyip keyif yapmanin pesinde.  
In the ocean, the waves are decent enough to encourage an enthusiastic surf community. On the beach side, at the low tide, life is more serene contrary to the ones inside the water. Slow by slow people are  trickling across the sands. While some of them pursuit of picking up shells, the others prefer to just lay down and watch the surfers. 





Gec ogleden sonralari ise istriridye ve beyaz sarap a adaniyor. Gidebileceginiz bir cok adres var fakat biz orada yasayan bir arkadasimizin tavsiyesiyle (yerel bilgi en iyisidir diyerekten) Chez Boulan i sectik. Bu minik ama huzurlu restoranda belkide cift olarak hayatimizin en mutlu bir kac saatlerinden birini gecirdik. Hatirladigim kadariyla rezervasyon kabul etmiyorlar o yuzden ayakta beklemeye hazirlikli olun. Icinizden gelen homurtulari duyar gibiyim ama  merak etmeyin guleryuzlu ve muhabbeti bol calisanlari sayesinde zamanin nasil gectigini anlamayacaksiniz. Masaniza oturdugunuzda aninda her sey masanizda olacak.  
Late afternoons are devoted to fresh oysters with white wine. You have plenty of addresses to have them but, we decided to try a suggestion of a local friend (locals know the best) Chez Boulan. In this small but cute restaurant as a couple we spent one of the happiest time of our life. Good food, lover and a landscape (dunes of Arcachon). Awesome trinity !!! As far as I remember they don't accept reservations so be ready to be at the line. I feel like hearing your unsatisfied inner voice. Don't worry you will not understand how time spin away thanks to the friendly and chatty staff. And finally when you pass through your table everything will be there in a minute. 
Aklinizda bulunsun; Fransizlar Louis XIV' den miras kalmis bir gelenek sebebiyle istiridyeyi icinde "r" gecen aylarda (Fransizca) tuketirler. Diger aylar ureme aylari oldugundan korumaya birakirlar. Yani yazin geldiginizde ben istiridye istiyorum diye tutturmayin pek bulamazsiniz. 
Ps: In France people eat oysters just in months that contain "r" (in French). This rule is little merit today, as it dates from the days of Louis XIV and a royal edict forbidding farmers from harvesting wild oysters during the months without an "r", the period of reproduction. 


Gunes yuzunuze vururken, burnunuzda okyanus kokusu ve karsinizda kumdan bir dag. Sanirim huzurun tanimina biraz da olsa benziyor. 
While sun is across your face, smell of ocean is on your nose and the view of mountain of sands. I guess the explanation of peace is a little bit something like that. 


Gitmek icin; arabaniz varsa ne mutlu size eger yoksa hic uzulmeyin karsinizda toplu tasimanin uzmanlari var. Bordeaux'dan 601 numarali otobuse bindiginizde yaklasik olarak 1:30 saat icerisinde Cap Ferret de olacaksiniz. Otobusler gercekten cok konforlu ve kolay. 
To Go: If you have a car happy you !!! But if you haven't don't worry here is the masters of the public transportation talking, from the central Bordeaux , when you catch the bus number 601 around in 1:30 hours you will be in Cap Ferret. Busses are super cool and comfortable. 


Sessun top / Zara cardigan / Cheap Monday jeans / Woolrich parka / Nike blazers

Pics by JB and me 

For more info about Cap Ferret and Bassin d'Arcachon click here !





Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Saint-Émillion


Evet, nerde kalmistik ? Hah hala Bordeaux'dayiz, muhtemelen Fransa'nin sarap uretimi yapan onlarca sehirinin en iyisinde, ve siz oturmus karar kara yaklasik olarak bolgenin 1500 küsür sarap bagi arasindan hangisinin en kesfedilmeye ve tadilmaya deger olduguna karar vermeye calisiyorsunuz. Iste size iyi egitilmis sarap garsonunu bile afallatacak bir soru ; bu bas dondurucu uzum suyunun etkisine biraz daha fazla girmek icin nereden baslayacagiz ? Eger arabaniz varsa hemen GPS inizin rotasini Saint-Émillion'a ayarlayin veya arabaniz yoksa da hic sorun degil yaklasik yarim saatlik bir tren yolculugundan sonra kendinizi minicik bir tren istasyonunda inerken buluyorsunuz. Etrafimiz sarap baglariyla sarilmis hep o buyuk sehirler arasi tren yolculugu yaparken ismini bilmedigimiz birden bire iniverip hemen sokaklarina dalmak istediginiz kucuk koylerden birinin istasyonunda buluyoruz kendimizi. 

Yes, where were we ? Ahh still in Bordeaux, probably the most famous of France's many wine-producing regions and you set aside a day to explore the best that the area's 1500 some odd wineries  and you are brooding about which one you gonna choose. Here there is the question even enough to flummox a trained sommelier; how do we make  our decision, where can one possibly begin ? So, at this point my blog has a suggestion for you; if you have a car set your GPS for the small hilltop town of Saint-Émillion. If not, which is something I prefer and did, around 30 min by train from Bordeaux you will arrive to a cute little train station. Surrounding by vineyards, I find myself one of that small village station that generally no one really takes attention and I always want to get off to be lost in its narrow streets while travelling between big cities. 












Oglen yemeginiz icin en guzel adreslerden birisi L'envers Du Décor
L'envers Du Décor is one of the most delicious address to rock your lunch.


Gelelim isin en zevkli kismina; sarap tadimi! Bir cok sato secenegimiz olmasina ragmen biz tercihimizi yapisal farkliligi sebebiyle Château Villemaurine' den yana kullandik. Bu guzel ortacag kasabasinin merkezine cok yakin insa edilmis olan sato sizlere beklenmedik surprizler sunuyor. Bir onceki Bordeaux postumda bahsettigim evlerde kullanilan taslarin cikarildigi cok eski bir ocak burasi. Tur rehberi esliginde yaklasik 40 dklik tarihi bir tura cikiyorsunuz. Bu turda kasabanin ve tas ocaginin gecimisini yaratici bir ortamda, isiklarla ve efektlerle deneyimleme sansi yakalayacaksiniz. Turunuzun sonunda da beklenen an geliyor; saraplarinizi tadima hazirsiniz ! 

Here is the most waited part of this trip; wine tasting! There are many chateau options in Saint-Émillion but we preferred Château Villemaurine because of its historical and architectural background. Located close to center of the medieval town Villemaurine has unexpected surprises for its visitors. It's an old quarry used to built the houses in Bordeaux  as I mention before in my previous post. With the guided tour, which takes around 40 minutes, you will have the opportunity to visit network of quarries and learn the history of Saint-Émillion by watching the projection prepared by the chateau. At the end of this little adventure in the past here you are in the dream room to taste your fermented grape juices ! 

Her ne kadar Saint-Émillion da makaron konusunda iddiali olsa da benim tercihim her zaman St Jean de Luz'un klasiklesen Maison Adamindan yana olacak. 
Although Saint-Émillion is quite assertive about their macarons too, I'll always prefer Maison Adam which becomes a classic in St Jean de Luz. 




Woolrich parka / COS top / American Apparel jean / Buxiki ( a basque brand ) boots / Celine bag 
Jimmy Fairly glasses

Pics by JB and me






Thursday, December 11, 2014

Bordeaux vs. Paris


Gelin sizinle bir karsilastirma yapalim. Iki guzel sehre dalalim ve hangisinde yasamak isterdiniz karar verelim. 
Bana gore Bordeaux unlu bir top modelin hic taninmayan ikizi. Aslinda dunyanin en buyuk ve en lezzetli sarap ureticilerinden bir tanesi ve benim gibi sarap sevenler icin bu sep bile unlu kizkardesi Paris'i alt etmeye aday. Biliyorum biliyorum hadi Ezgi sen de dediginizi duyar gibiyim. Her ne kadar Paris duzenli buyuk bulvarlariyla, tarihiyle ve isiklariyla kalbimizin en guzel koselerinden birinde yer alsa da, inanin bana Bordeaux'da da hic kucumsenmeyecek guzellikler gizli. Bir cok baskentin en buyuk, 18.yy la ait bulvarlari Bordeaux dan model alinarak insa edilmistir ve toplu olarak UNESCO Dunya Miraslari arasinda yerini almistir. Sehre girer girmez dikkatinizi ceken baska bir sey daha var; sizlere bir anda ortadogu mimarisini animsatan kirec tasindan yapilmis binalar. Sehre neoklasik bir hava veren bu binalar belirli araliklarla parlatildiklarindan zamana karsi dimdik durarak, sizleri selamliyor. Anlayacaginiz isiklarin sehrinden farkli, Bordeaux sevginizi kazanmak icin cok cabaliyor.  

Let's make a comparison with you, let's dive into two beautiful cities and decide which one would you prefer. 
According to me, Bordeaux is like the non-famous twin sister of a celebrity. In fact, as a wine lover, even it could easily pass her famous sister Paris by being one of the largest and delicious wine producer in the world. I know, I know I hear many of you say come one Ezgi! But believe me although Paris able to steal your heart with a big, planned boulevards, its history and lights, there are many things in Bordeaux enough to bring you there. For example many of the capital's grandest 18th century boulevards and buildings were modeled after Bordeaux, which were collectively granted UNESCO World Heritage Site. As soon as you enter the city there is something else take your attention; limestone buildings which make you feel as if you are somewhere in Middle-East especially Syria. Thanks to revitalization effort, these neoclassical buildings still able to welcome you by making head to time. As you understand the difference of this non-famous twin sister is that she is trying a lot harder to win your love. 

Jardin Botanique of Bordeaux or Tuileries of Paris
Botanik bahcelerinin pek bana gore olmadigini soyler dururum fakat, ayni zamanda da sehrin gobegindeki kocaman yesil alanlara da hayir diyemem tabiki. Ozellikle de sonbaharda o sicak renklerin yaratmis oldugu manzaranin size verdigi sonsuz huzur hissine... Bence burayi Tuileries'in yogun turist yiginina tercih edebilirsiniz. Hem bu botanik bahcesi sizin icin onlardan kacmaniza yetecek kadar buyuk. 
I always say botanic gardens aren't my type. But at the same time I can't say no to big green grass areas in the middle of the cities. Especially the view and the colors of such places in the beginning of fall gives you eternal peace. So, you may prefer this nice garden to Tuileries' big tourist mass. Here, at least you have huge area to escape from them. 


CAPC Instead of Centre Pompidou 
CAPC, 1820 lerden kalma bir liman deposunun 1973'de Modern Sanatlar Muzesine donusturlmus hali. Her ne kadar Paris'in katalog muzeleri kadar genis bir koleksiyona sahip olmasa da - mesela Pampidou yaklasik 50.000 eser barindirken CAPC sadece 100 u kalici 600 esere sahip - Pampidou ile aralarinda bir kidem farki var ki, onunde saygiyla egiliyoruz. 4 yil daha yasli olan CAPS Fransa'da Keith Harring, Richard Serra ve Frank Stella gibi sanatcilarin  eserlerinin ilk sergilendigi yer. Ayrica her seyden once mimarisi dolayisiyla gorulmesi gereken bir yer. Pampidou'nun yapayligina karsi CAPS'in zamana meydan okuyan binasi. 

Opened in 1973 in an 1820s warehouse on the harbor, the CAPC Musée D’Art Contemporain de Bordeaux may not have quite the catalogue of the Paris' inside-out art museum (with 600 works by 100 artists in its collection, compared with the Pompidou’s 50,000), but it does have seniority: It’s a full four years older than the Pompidou and was the first museum in France to display pieces by Keith Haring, Richard Serra, and Frank Stella. More than that it's a place you should visit just because of its history. Plasticated Pampidou vs. full of history stand against time of CAPS... 




Chartrons instead of the Marais

Chartron'a Bordeaux'nun en yeni "bobo" bolgesi diyebiliriz. Bolgenin antikacilarina, yeni eklenen ve sayilari gun gectikce artan kafeler, butik hoteller, birbinden farkli sanat galerileri ve dizayn butikler ziyaretinizi daha da keyifli hale gitiriyor.  Her seye ragmen buranin bir Marais olmasina daha cok var diyebiliriz. Ama siz yine de bu adresleri gormeden donmeyin; Londra'dan eski bir moda editoru'nun sirin mi sirin butigi "Lily Blake", her turlu vintage esyayi bulabileceginiz "Ouai des Marques", bin bir turlu seyin bulundugu "La Patine du Temps" ve minimal tasarimlarini cok seveceginiz dekorasyon magazasi "O Design".

Bordeaux’s newest bobo district, Chartrons makes your visit more enjoyable with expat-run cafés, boutique hotels, antic shops, art galleries and design boutiques. Even for all that it still has long way to be like her elder sister Marais. But it doesn't matter, enjoy your trip and don't turn back without visiting these places; "Lily Blake" run by a former Londoner fashion editor,"Ouai des Marques" where you can find tons of vintage stuff, "La Patine du Temps" where you can find almost everything and lastly "O Design" decoration shop has nice minimal designs.   




Lastly Drinking -and more Instead of Smoking 

Bildiginiz gibi Paris kaldirimlara atilan sigara izmaritleriyle de unludur. Fakat pek de unlu olmayan ikiz kardesi Bordeaux daha masum oldugundan sadece sarapla yetiniyor. Bununla da kalmiyor her gecen gun acilan sarap barlariyla ve restoranlariyla da kotu aliskanliklari olan kiz kardesine meydan okuyor. Iste size bu guzel geziye kadeh kaldirip yaninda da guzel tadlar deneyeceginiz bir kac adres; "Molly Malone's", klasik Irlanda publarindan birinin biranin yaninda en leziz bordo saraplarindan sunan versiyonu ayrica Fish and Chips leri kesinlikle bu zamana kadar yediklerimizin en iyilerinden, "Chez Dupond" geleneksel leziz mutfagiyla kesinlikle menuden gozleriniz kapali secim yapabileceginiz bir yer ve son olarak geceyi Garonne nehrinin uzerinde bir teknede sonlandirmak isterseniz sizleri Bordeaux nun en guzel mekanina "I.Boat" a alayim. 

As you know Paris is famous with cigarette ends thrown on the streets. As her unknown sister is more innocent than her, she just makes do with wine. Even she challenges her day by day increasing number of wine bars and restaurants. Here some places you can rise your glass to this beautiful trip; "Molly Malone's" is an Irish Pub beyond the classic ones because it serves wide range of good wine also fish and chips are one of the best we've ever eaten, "Chez Dupond" with their delicious traditional cuisine i definitely suggest you can choose anything from the menu eyes wide shut, lastly if you wanna end the night in a boat on Garonne, I'm inviting you to "I.Boat" decommissioned ferry that hosts dance parties, rock bands, and cinema events on weekends.



Nereyi secersiniz bilmem ama ben bu 4 gunluk tatilin sonunda evime dondugumde agzimdan iyi ki de Paris'te yasiyorum diye bir cumle geciverdi aklimdan. Hadi itiraf edelim hepimiz kotu seyleri ve onlarin bizi goturdugu yollari az cok seviyoruz. Zaten birazcik kotu aliskanliktan kimseye bir zarar gelmez :) 
I don't know where would you choose, but when I turned back my home from this beautiful 4 days vacation, suddenly a sentence -which even shocked me- goes out from my lips "thanks God I'm living in Paris" . Let's confess we all , more or less,  like bad things and the point they bring us. Anyway little bit of bad habits does't kill anyone.  

Woolrich  parka / Zara top / American Apparel Jean / Nike blazers / Celine trio bag

Pics by me and JB